Boutique hotels in Chicago

Chicago after dark

Chicago licenses some bars to 4am, and to 5am on Saturday nights, later than almost anywhere else in the country. The Green Mill in Uptown still programmes jazz in its Capone-era room, while Kingston Mines and Buddy Guy's Legends keep blues running nightly. Logan Square and Wicker Park hold the neighbourhood crowd, and the Red and Blue Lines run all night.

What to eat in Chicago

Deep dish is largely a visitor's order; the weeknight local pizza is tavern-style, thin and cut into squares. Italian beef arrives dipped, sweet or hot, from Al's or Johnnie's. A Chicago dog carries celery salt and sport peppers and never ketchup. Pilsen and Little Village cook the city's best Mexican food, and Devon Avenue runs South Asian by the block.

What's actually worth your time in Chicago

The Chicago Architecture Center river cruise is the rare tourist boat that locals endorse, because this city's skyline genuinely is the subject rather than the backdrop. Cloud Gate in Millennium Park is free and takes five minutes. Pick one high view, either the Willis Tower Skydeck ledge or 360 Chicago's Tilt over the lake. Navy Pier is free to enter and expensive once inside.

Chicago with kids, realistically

Museum Campus lines up the Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium, and Adler Planetarium along one lakefront walk, though that walk is fully exposed and punishing in wind. Lincoln Park Zoo is free and open year-round. The Museum of Science and Industry lets children board a captured German U-boat. CTA rail elevators exist at most stations but not all, so check the route first.

When the weather turns in Chicago

The Loop Pedway links parts of downtown underground, though it is patchier and worse signposted than Toronto's or Montreal's equivalents. Better to commit to one large interior, since the Art Institute, the Field, and the Museum of Science and Industry each fill a day alone. The Chicago Cultural Center's Tiffany dome is free. Architecture cruises sail in rain but not lightning.

When to go to Chicago

The month to avoid is January — around 1°C (34°F) with roughly 11 rain days. Prices and crowds track the weather here: September is the sweet spot, January the month most people skip.

Pack for peak season: Summer clothes, plus one light layer for air-con and evenings, A packable rain shell or compact umbrella earns its space, Comfortable walking shoes — every guide on this site assumes you'll use them.