Vietnam · stays
Hotels in Hanoi
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What first-timers get wrong in Hanoi
Count the zeros, because a 500,000 note and a 50,000 note are similar in colour and the mistake is routine. Book Grab or Xanh SM rather than flagging cars, since unbranded taxis with rigged meters still work the Old Quarter. A friendly man offering to fix your shoe will take it and then set a price. Ha Long Bay is a long drive each way even on the expressway, leaving only a couple of hours afloat.
Hanoi after dark
Bia hoi is the point: fresh unpasteurised draught poured into plastic cups on plastic stools, among the cheapest beer on earth, and the junction of Ta Hien and Luong Ngoc Quyen is where it happens. A midnight closing rule exists and is enforced unpredictably. From Friday to Sunday evening the streets around Hoan Kiem shut to traffic and fill with children playing skipping games.
What things cost in Hanoi
A bowl of pho on a street corner is 40,000 to 60,000 dong, roughly double in a sit-down restaurant. A glass of bia hoi runs five to ten thousand. A Grab motorbike across the Old Quarter costs 20,000 to 40,000. The Temple of Literature charges 70,000 and Hoa Lo Prison a similar amount. Old Quarter guesthouse rooms start well under a million dong a night.
Hanoi with kids, realistically
The water puppet theatre on Dinh Tien Hoang runs hourly shows lasting under an hour, which suits short attention spans exactly, and the live musicians beside the tank are half the appeal. Crossing a Hanoi road is the real lesson: walk slowly and predictably and the scooters flow around you, but never stop or double back. Pavements are parked solid with motorbikes, so pushchairs end up in the road.
When the weather turns in Hanoi
Northern Vietnam has a grey drizzle season around February to April that never quite rains and never quite stops. The response is coffee: the Old Quarter holds hundreds of narrow upstairs cafes where nursing one drink for two hours is expected behaviour. The Ethnology and Fine Arts museums are indoors. Lotte Center's 65th-floor observation deck and Trang Tien Plaza cover the mall option.
When to go to Hanoi
| Best months for hotels-in | Avg daily high | Rain days |
|---|---|---|
| December | 22°C / 72°F | 4 days |
| November | 27°C / 81°F | 7 days |
| February | 23°C / 73°F | 11 days |
The month to avoid is July — around 33°C (91°F) with roughly 21 rain days. Prices and crowds track the weather here: December is the sweet spot, July the month most people skip.
Pack for peak season: Summer clothes, plus one light layer for air-con and evenings, Comfortable walking shoes — every guide on this site assumes you'll use them.