Morocco · stays
Hotels in Fes
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What first-timers get wrong in Fes
Hiring a badged official guide for half a day is one of the few places in Morocco where it saves money rather than costs it, because Fes el-Bali genuinely defeats phone navigation. Your riad will not be reachable by car; a porter with a handcart carries the bags in, and the fee should be agreed at the gate. On the tannery terrace the mint sprig is free, the sales pitch afterwards is not.
Fes after dark
Fez does not have a night out. Medina lanes empty around ten and the shutters come down, leaving cats and the occasional handcart. What exists sits along Avenue Hassan II in the Ville Nouvelle, mostly male-dominated cafes and a couple of hotel bars. Riads serve set dinners to their own guests. The exception falls in June, when the Festival of World Sacred Music puts concerts in Bab Makina.
What things cost in Fes
Fez undercuts Marrakech across the board. A bowl of bissara at a medina counter is five to ten dirhams, and a full pastilla in a riad dining room 80 to 150. Half a day with a licensed guide is commonly 300 to 400 dirhams for the whole group rather than per head. Petit taxis around the Ville Nouvelle rarely top 20. Second-class rail to Casablanca is about 120.
Fes with kids, realistically
Handcarts and loaded donkeys come through the lanes behind a shouted balak with no room to dodge, so small children need a hand held constantly and a pram is out of the question. The tannery smell of pigeon droppings and lime defeats most under-tens. Jnan Sbil, the walled garden by Bab Bou Jeloud, is the one place to let them run. Azrou's macaque forest makes an easy day trip.
When the weather turns in Fes
Sitting inland at four hundred metres, Fez has properly cold, wet winters, unlike the coast. The medina's worn paving turns slick underfoot in rain, so wear grip. The Nejjarine museum and Dar Batha are both roofed and worth taking slowly. Better still, book a hammam or a class at Cafe Clock on Derb el Magana, then wait the weather out over a bowl of bissara.
When to go to Fes
| Best months for hotels-in | Avg daily high | Rain days |
|---|---|---|
| November | 23°C / 73°F | 4 days |
| October | 28°C / 82°F | 5 days |
| February | 20°C / 68°F | 6 days |
The month to avoid is July — around 38°C (100°F) with roughly 0 rain days. Prices and crowds track the weather here: November is the sweet spot, July the month most people skip.
Pack for peak season: Summer clothes, plus one light layer for air-con and evenings, Comfortable walking shoes — every guide on this site assumes you'll use them.
Where to base yourself in Fes
- Fes el-Bali — Old medina — tanneries, Al-Quaraouiyine mosque, the labyrinth core.
- Fes el-Jdid — New medina — the Mellah Jewish quarter, royal palace gates, market lanes.
- Ville Nouvelle — French colonial new town — boulevards, cafés, the train station.